Many consumers are choosing to upgrade their current tank water heater to the new and improved tankless water heater systems that are available. They offer the convenience so having hot water ready immediately when you want it instead of having to wait for it to heat up in a tank as with older models of water heaters. However, it is very important that you understand how to properly install your tankless water heater if you choose to do it yourself.
The most popular type of tankless water heater uses natural gas. There are some safety procedures you need to be aware of before you attempt to install one. The most important rule to follow is to make sure that the natural gas supply valve is completely turned off. You are going to need to disconnect the pipe that runs from the home to the supply of gas. After disconnecting this pipe the gas will flow into the home and it can result in death if you dont shut it off properly.
It isnt difficult to shut off the natural gas supply, but again it is vital that you do so. There is a switch on the side of the gas meter. Move the handle so that it is in the off position. You need to make sure there is absolutely no gas allowed into your home while you are installing the natural gas tankless water heater.
Next you will need to make sure the fittings from the existing pipe match the new pipe on the natural gas tankless water heater. You can measure them on each end to find out. If they are different then you are going to need to purchase the proper fittings so that everything can be aligned properly.
Make sure you thoroughly inspect it to ensure there is enough ventilation after you have installed the natural gas tankless water heater. This includes having a vent that leads to the outside of the home. You wont be able to vent the unit to an indoor area or you run the risk of death from the natural gas being in the home.
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Tankless Water Heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. Therefore, they avoid the standby heat losses associated with storage water heaters. When a hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit. In an electric Tankless Water Heater an electric element heats the water. In a gas-fired Tankless Water Heater a gas burner heats the water. As a result, Tankless Water Heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don't need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water. Typically, Tankless Water Heaters provide hot water at a rate of 2 – 5 gallons (7.6 – 15.2 liters) per minute. Typically, gas-fired Tankless Water Heaters will produce higher flow rates than electric Tankless Water Heaters. Some smaller Tankless Water Heaters, however, cannot supply enough hot water for simultaneous, multiple uses in large households. For example, taking a shower and running the dishwasher at the same time can stretch a Tankless Water Heater to its limit. To overcome this problem, you can install a “whole house” type Tankless Water Heater or install two or more Tankless Water Heaters, connected in parallel for simultaneous demands of hot water. You can also install separate Tankless Water Heaters for appliances—such as a clothes washer or dishwater—that use a lot of hot water in your home.
Other applications for Tankless Water Heaters include the following:
Remote BBQ or outdoor sink
Poolhouse or pool shower
Remote bathrooms or hot tubs
To serve as a booster, eliminating long pipe runs, for solar water heating systems, dishwashers and sanitation.
Before buying a Tankless Water Heater, consider the following:
Fuel Type
Location, Size and Demand
Application
1. Fuel Type
The first thing that you'll need to decide when selecting a Tankless Water Heater is the fuel type. You will need to select between an Electric Tankless Water Heater (like Eemax Tankless Water Heaters or Stiebel Eltron Tankless Water Heaters) or a Gas-Fired Tankless Water Heater (like Rheem Tankless Water Heaters).
Requirements for Electric Tankless Water Heaters
Requirements for Gas-Fired Tankless Water Heaters
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If you plan to purchase an Electric Tankless Water Heater, consider the Electrical Requirements:
Voltage
Amperage
Circuit Breaker
Voltage
Many retailers sell units that will accommodate 110V, 120V, 208V, 220V, 240V, and 277V.
Amperage
Different Electric Tankless Water Heaters will have various requirements in amp draw. You will want to ensure that you can support the electrical demands of your Electric Tankless Water Heater.
Circuit Breaker
You must ensure that you have a circuit or circuits that will support your Electric Tankless Water Heater. It may be necessary to put your Electric Tankless Water Heater on its own circuit or circuits.
You should consult with a qualified, licensed electrician for more information.
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If you plan to purchase a Gas-Fired Tankless Water Heater, consider the Gas-Type and Venting Requirements:
When deciding which Tankless Water Heater to purchase, you will also need to consider where you will need hot water. Are you looking for a unit that will heat the water at one bathroom sink (single point application), an entire bathroom (multipoint application), or an entire house, apartment, or condo (whole house application)? It is important to recognize the number of fixtures that will require hot water. Each fixture will have its own demands. The chart below illustrates the typical flow rates (demand) for some standard fixtures:
Lavatory = 0.5
Bathtub = 2.0 to 4.0
Shower = 1.5 to 3.0
kitchen sink = 1.0 to 1.5
Laundry Sink = 2.5 to 3.0
Dishwasher = 10 to 3.0
The flow rate is especially important, since Tankless Water Heaters will generate a temperature rise based on the flow rate demanded.
Next, you should look at your ambient incoming water temperature. If you live in a cold climate, like New York, your incoming water temperature will likely be much lower than if you live in a warm climate, like Florida. Your best bet is to find out how much temperature rise you will need in order for your hot water to reach the desired heat. If the ambient incoming water temperature for your shower is 65°F, you are using a 2.0 gpm shower, and you want to raise that temperature to 115°F, you will want to look for a Tankless Water Heater that will provide at least a 50°F temperature rise at 2.0 gpm (115°F - 65°F = 50°F). However, if you anticipate additional simultaneous demand, such as the hot water from a sink being used while someone is showering, you will need to add the sink's gpm to the shower's gpm in order to determine your overall gpm demand and then find the temperature rise necessary to meet your overall needs.
3. Application
You may have a specific application in mind for your Tankless Water Heater. Here are a few examples of the different models and their functionality for a specific application:
Single Point Application
A single point application is one where only one fixture will require an Electric Tankless Water Heater. Here are some examples of Single Point Electric Tankless Water Heaters:
Eemax Single Point Electric Tankless Water Heaters
Stiebel Eltron Point of Use Electric Tankless Water Heaters
Chronomite Instant-Flow SR Electric Tankless Water Heaters
Eemax Flow Controlled
The "Flow Controlled" range of water heaters from Eemax are ideally suited to serve two points, like two sinks, in close proximity. Here is an example of Flow Controlled Electric Tankless Water Heaters:
Eemax Flow Controlled Electric Tankless Water Heaters
Thermostatic
The Thermostatic Tankless Water Heater serves as a booster for temperature loss from long pipe runs, dishwashers and sanitation. Thermostatic units are good for applications where precise temperature control is essential; such as schools, hospitals and laboratories. Here are some examples of Thermostatic Electric Tankless Water Heaters:
Eemax Thermostatic Electric Tankless Water Heaters
Stiebel Eltron DHC-E 8 Electric Tankless Water Heater
Stiebel Eltron DHC-E 10 Electric Tankless Water Heater
Eemax Series Two
Eemax Series Two units are ideally suited for residential showers, entire bathrooms, smaller houses, condos, summer cabins and apartments. They will also accommodate industrial boosters, higher flow rate applications such as wash down stations and higher flow rate accurate temperature control applications such as photo labs. Here is an example of Eemax Series Two Electric Tankless Water Heaters:
Eemax Series Two Electric Tankless Water Heaters
Whole House Indoor Use
Larger Whole House units are designed to serve an entire house, apartment, condo, or cabin, where multiple points of use will exist. Here are some examples of Whole House Electric Tankless Water Heaters for Indoor use:
Eemax EX280T2T Series Three Electric Tankless Water Heater
Stiebel Eltron Tempra Series Electric Tankless Water Heaters
Rheem Indoor Gas-Fired Tankless Water Heaters
Whole House Outdoor Use
Larger Whole House units are designed to serve an entire house, apartment, condo, or cabin, where multiple points of use will exist. Here are some examples of Whole House Electric Tankless Water Heaters for Outdoor use:
Rheem Outdoor Gas-Fired Tankless Water Heaters
Tankless Water Heater Installation and Maintenance
Proper installation and maintenance of your Tankless Water Heater can optimize its energy efficiency.
Proper installation depends on many factors. These factors include climate and local building code requirements. You should have a qualified, licensed plumbing and heating contractor install your Tankless Water Heater.
Do the following when selecting a contractor:
Request cost estimates in writing
Ask for references
Check the company with your local Better Business Bureau
Confirm the company will obtain a local permit, if necessary, and understands local building codes
Be sure you contractor first consults the manufacturer’s installation and instruction materials. Manufacturers usually provide the necessary installation and instruction manuals with the product. Your contractor should also contact your municipality for information about obtaining a permit, if necessary, and about local water heater installation codes.
Many Tankless Water Heaters have a life expectancy of more than 20 years. They also have easily replaceable parts that extend their life by many more years. In contrast, storage water heaters last 10 – 15 years.
You should consult the manufacturer's website or literature, such as the manual, for detailed warranty information.
Periodic water heater maintenance can significantly extend your water heater's life and minimize loss of efficiency. Read your owner's manual for specific maintenance recommendations.
Saturday, April 19, 2008
Replacing your Hot Water Tank with a Tankless version
Tuesday, April 15, 2008
Tips for Tiling a Bathroom
“Bath out of level”
One of the first things that I do when starting a bathroom wall tile installation, is to put my long spirit level on and along the perimeter of the bath. What I found often is that the bath is badly out of level, sometimes dropping towards the plug hole and on fewer occasions dropping opposite to the plug hole. Of all of the baths I have seen to date I have not yet seen a bath that has not got a natural internal fall in order to drain the water, so I cannot see a valid reason for not having the top of the bath level. It must be said though, that occasionally, some baths are simply badly built. No much thought has been given for accommodating the tiles
If the tiles to be installed are a medium to large size and have no strong pattern, then is not a problem for the tiler. He/she would just need to trim the tiles accordingly to the fall but if the level is too much out you can have problem when installing a bath/shower screen onto the bath edge.
if on the other hand you are installing mosaic or tiles with lines or strong patterns, the tiling will look awful as even the smallest level difference along the bath length will be very noticeable. When dealing with mosaic, doing cuts means more time and money.
“Fitted shower”
I is important to have the tiles to go behind the unit as this can avoid water penetration in the wall/s. Some showers have the hot and cold pipes covered with a plate. On these type of shower units tiling must be done before the unit is fitted as the tile can be drilled neatly to accommodate the pipe work if not, the tiles will need to be cut in a way that will have to show an unsightly finish. If the plumber is fitting a new shower unit ask him/her to allow for the pipe work to protrude from the wall more than it is needed, then to wait for the tiling to be done before final installation. I have had situations where the shower has been fitted, without even allowing for the tile thickness between the cover plates and the wall.
“Shower trays and baths with excessive gap”
When installing baths or trays make sure to have very little gap from them to the walls otherwise you might end up using either too much silicone or having to install a bath trim. I am not in favour of these bath/shower trims or tile beads as I have found the baths and trays can move downwards causing the trim to separate and capillary action allowing water to draw into the walls. If you find that the bath or tray is not fitting tight to the walls it is likely that it is due to the right angled wall not being square to the other or that the wall is bulging. It is standard practice to slightly bed in the bath/tray into the wall just enough for the gap to close. This also helps “hold” the bath/tray in place. Many times you would only need to channel one wall only. This is when the internal corner of the wall is not square. Again, only set the tray into the wall until the gap closes. Care must be taken not to inset the bath too much as you might have problem with the taps distance to the wall, hence preventing clear access on opening and closing them. Also, pay attention to the shower tray as if you inset this too much, you might have problems later fitting the shower screen.
“Lipped shower trays not set in”
Lipped showers are those trays that have an upstand along 2 or more sides.
These trays are supposed to be containing the water within the tray and avoiding water leakage into the adjoining walls. In theory this is great but I have carried out a number of tiling repairs due to this type of tray. The reason why there has been some problem with this type of tray is because of poor plumbing installation. On a few occasions the tray was placed against the walls (not inset into the wall). On other occasions the fitter did not inset the tray enough into the walls. I have noticed that there usually is a considerable lateral movement once I step on the tray during tile installation. This causes the tray s upright lip to move (from inside outwards) towards the tile and doing so, de-bonding the first row of tiles and in turn allowing water to penetrate in the wall, causing problems. The only way not to have any problem with this type of tray is to make sure that the tray is set in the wall more than the lateral movement allows. Care must be taken not to go too deep in the wall as the shower screen might not fit inside the tray.
“Shower unit/controls at the wrong height”
A common problem that can be avoided is the placing of the shower controls height onto the walls. As it is important for the user to have the controls at the right height one overlooked situation is the height of the tile border. If there is no border then it s not a problem but if you are considering installing a tile border, then get the tiler to relay with the plumber as you don t want to spoil the border being interrupted by the controls. If the border is thicker than the main tiles then you can have more problems with the control s cover plates not seating flush, also if the border is thicker than the tiles the tiler will need to know where the shower/bath screen will be going exactly as that part of the border where the screen will cover must not be tiled or the screen won t seat flush.
“Radiators, towel rail, basin already fitted, toilet pan height and servicing”
On situations where basin, towel rail radiators and toilet are fitted, this is where a lot of time will need to be spent as it (unless removed) will require to cut around these items (if possible). Here if planned in advance the tiling would need to be carried out BEFORE the final plumbing installation. Reality is that many plumbers want to get in and out as soon as possible not worrying about the tiling (after all, they are not doing it, are they!). If you are going to have the floor tiled then you MUST have the basin (pedestal), toilet pan and any surface mounted radiator OFF the floor and the plumbing already prepared for the new floor height. If the existing floor is made of wood, then there is a big chance that the floor will go up around 1″ - about 25 mm but can only be assessed during the estimate or quote.
“Old tiles still in place after having a new suite installed”
This is another thing overlooked.
You have planned your project for a long time, the workers get in to replace the old bathroom suite with the one you really wanted for a long time. They remove the first row of tiles abutting the old suite and install the new one. Job done.
It is beyond belief that some people can do this. “The tiler can take the tiles off”.
It must be appreciated that removing tiles after a new bathroom suite has been installed is no easy task and the risk of damage to it can be considerable. Also, at times, some sections of walls may need to be replaced or repaired according to the surface type and adhesive strength. Make sure that the tiles ARE removed prior to the new installation.
The same applies to kitchen installations.
Ant Problems? A chemical free way to get rid of ants
Are You Losing Your Home To Ants?
By Bradlley Mckoy
Ants - red, black, winged, un-winged, big, and small are all pests. They march silently into your home and garden and wreck havoc, eating into your clothes and even your furniture. They are merciless.
Ants Driving You Antsy?
Ants can destroy anybody s mood, whether you re raving mad or feeling romantic. The moment they sting, you freeze and itch. When they raid the pantry, the books, and the clothes, you can curse yourself to the next county, but they will stay unless you take up arms against these tiny pests.
Just when you re enjoying your carrots coated with roasted garlic, they come in swarms to the picnic basket. These pests can really destroy the mood for a carefree afternoon picnic in the park. And when they invade the home, prepare for the havoc they can wreck. One way you can get them out is keeping all food scraps and trash bins far from the house.
But if it is still not enough, time to boil those red hot chili peppers and pour this over the ant mounds. With ants as enemies, you ve got to practice Kaizen. Kaizen is a Japanese word that means a gradual, orderly effort towards continuous improvement. In the case of ants, it s the improvement of your artillery to wipe out the pest from your home.
Red Hot Chili Peppers?
With the profusion of chemicals and pesticides, its better to go natural to rid the pests to kingdom come. Here s what you ll need:
1. an old kettle that can hold a gallon of water
2. 3 cups fresh or dried chili peppers
3. a pair of long gloves
4. eye protection
5. Syringe (2)
You can boil more than 1 gallon, if you think you need more ammunition. It s always handy to have an extra gallon around when you attack the ant mounds. Don t attempt to go near the steam and keep children out of the way. When you re ready, deck yourself out with a pair of long gloves and as much as possible avoid contact with the water. In case you accidentally do have contact, be ready to prepare a glass of cold milk to rub over the affected skin area.
Find the ant hill or mound, or look in the garden. They may be hiding under a rock. Don t disturb the peace until you have boiled the water together with the chili. With a syringe, extract the chili-infused water and inject into all openings in the ant mound. Destroy the ant mound, but be ready with your “hot” water. Expect pandemonium, so be prepared with enough hot water to flood the disturbed mound.
Regular dousing will send the ants packing, or greatly reduce their numbers. You can also use the same concoction for aphids and other plant pests. For this, reduce the number of chili to 2 cups. Share the recipe with your neighbors to prevent the return of the pests.
Maintaining your home without getting overwhelmed
Maintain Your Home Without Getting Overwhelmed By The Work
By Sarika Kabra
So you have bought a house and furnished it with a lot of care. You hope to enjoy your days in this abode or maybe sell it for a much higher value subsequently. However, no amount of decoration will be useful for your house if you do not take pains to maintain it. Maintenance is a prime necessity for any house as not only can a poorly maintained house pose health hazards, but also get devalued in the real estate market. Maintenance can make your house look new all the time. Thus, it is crucial that you spend some time on this task and ensure peace of mind. This article can help you organize your maintenance work by giving you handy tips on the process.
It is needless to say that you should have a well thought out plan before you jump into the home maintenance sphere. A plan keeps you focused and also breaks up your work so that you do not get overwhelmed by the tasks. This plan should be geared towards your family s schedule and lifestyle. You have to decide on the best time to look into this aspect. Since, this might involve some time devotion on your part you may want to schedule the work on weekends when you are relatively free. However, the plan cannot be too rigid as it will inevitably fail if you do not allow some flexibility of timings.
An important aspect of home maintenance is to really look around the house to check for areas that need special attention. Are your beautiful Amish handcrafted furniture pieces in need of retouching? Are some of your appliances not working properly? Is the lighting of your house uncomfortably dim? Make note of all the issues you notice. Even the ventilation, wires and other electric devices need to be checked for problems. Taking care of each of the furniture items, cleaning the bathrooms, kitchen and the rest of the rooms and maintaining the wall color of the house can take a lot of hard work and persistence on the home owner s part. Do you need to get the legs of your dining table repaired? It is important to check that none of the furniture or appliances in the house present any hazard to people. So look carefully and keep noting down everything.
Though the record of to-dos may overwhelm you at first, you have to be persistent. The only way to take care of all the issues is to start with the first one. So get that wiring fixed. Start cleaning your bathrooms and closets. Polish all the wooden furniture pieces. Clean your yard and check that the dish washer has no junk. Take the broken appliances to the professionals or replace them. Wash all the bed covers, pillow covers, sofa slips, curtains, drapes and any other decorative fabric.
Making the most of your closet organizer
How to Make the Most of Your Closet Organizers
By Andrew Caxton
If you have recently looked around your home and noticed just how cluttered it actually is, then you are likely to have tried to think of ways in which you can organize it all. Many times you simply have no idea where you could put it or how you could fit it anywhere else. You have already shoved everything that you can into the closet and it is fit to bursting and so now there is even things cluttered around the home too.
One way in which you can help yourself is to organize your closet. You can purchase special closet organizers such as shelves, rods and shoe racks and all will really help to make your home less cluttered and more homely.
The Most Effective Way to Use Closet Organizers
As well as a shoe rack, a rod and some shelving, there is a handy little organizer which comes on wheels which you may find extremely useful. This handy little gadget is known as a pant trolley and it generally consists of a rack which is moveable from room to room. It helps to keep any clothes off the floor and looking tidy, making the room look a lot more tidy and spacious. Due to the fact that it is moveable, this means that you can place it anywhere that you like. If you really want to help keep things tidy you can always keep the pant trolley in the closet.
If you find that you have no space for a pant trolley in your closet, you should try and really sort out the clutter there first. Put up shelving, generally as much as you can fit up leaving adequate spacing between each shelf so that you can put items of all sizes on them. Then you can keep all kinds of bits and pieces on the shelf. You can also use small baskets to keep various smaller bits and piece sin and they can be placed onto the shelf, hence saving more space and clearing the clutter even more.
You may have heard of the airtight storage bags which are available. Basically these store all sorts, though mainly bedding and clothing and once everything is inside you use a special tool to suck all of the air out and it turns into an extremely space saving organizer. That can easily be put into the closet or under the bed in order to keep the room looking tidy.
Overall there is plenty of space saving closet organizers that you can buy and it is always a good idea to purchase more than one type for more than one type of clutter. To do this, simply analyze the clutter and first see if anything can be thrown away and if not move on to buying the organizers. Just make sure that you research and shop around first before purchasing anything in order to get the best deal for you.
Ogranizing your Home - 10 Minute Clutter Control
10 Minute Clutter Control
By Jay Frankel
It is possible to clear all of the mess in your home and workplace simply by having regular 10 minute clutter control sessions. Sounds too good to be true? Well let s explore how this works.
By having regular 10 minute clutter control sessions you do not become overwhelmed with the task. You can prioritize the various zones in your home and office and work on the most urgent first. Have containers ready for your 10 minute clutter control sessions. You need one for the items that are to be thrown out another for items that can recycled a third for items that might be useful to charity and thrift shops and a fourth for items you want to keep but that need a new home.
By having bags or containers at the ready you have no excuse not to have a 10 minute clutter control session whenever you have a break in your day.
Try to incorporate your planned 10 minute clutter control sessions with another activity. It may be that every time you stop for coffee you spend time on a 10 minute clutter control session whilst you wait for the kettle to boil. Another idea is to plan a 10 minute clutter control session whilst dinner is cooking.
There are many opportunities during a day to fit in a 10 minute clutter control session. If this is done regularly you will soon see a reduction in the amount of clutter in your life.
To speed up the decluttering process why not try to enlist the help of other family or household members? If the clutter problem is bad in the work place ask your colleagues to join in the fun. Everyone enjoys 10 minute clutter control slots because they can see they have achieved something at the end of the time. In fact there is nothing that is quite as satisfying as a 10 minute clutter control session.
Friday, April 11, 2008
Drywalling tips the pro's use
Drywall surrounds us and for good reasons. It is an inexpensive wall covering that goes up quickly. It is neutral and can be covered with paint, wall paper or wood paneling easily. Other benefits include some sound proofing and insulation value.
Many people call drywall ‘sheetrock,' which is actually the registered trademark of the United States Gypsum Company.
Tools
Part of the beauty of drywall is that it can be installed with a few common and inexpensive hand tools. These include a measuring tape, chalk line, utility knife, a selection of broad knifes, inside corner tool, spackle tray, key hole saw, sponge, Surform Tool, sanding pole, tin snips and drill. Additional, but not necessary tools include spiral saw, screw gun, 4-foot T-square, drywall saw, power pole sander, stilts (for ceiling work), panel lifter and power mixer.
In new construction, dry wall is hung directly on the wall studs. In remodeling, drywall can be hung over any flat surface including existing wall coverings and cinder block and masonry walls, as long as firring strips are installed first. Several types of drywall are available, including standard drywall, waterproof drywall and even bullet proof drywall. Thicknesses include 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch and 5/8 inch. The standard and most common size is a 4-by-8-foot sheet but also available are 4-by-10, 4-by-12 and 4-by-14 feet. The long edges on all drywall are tapered slightly to help in the finishing process.
Surface Preparation
Part of the secret of a successful drywall project lies in installing over walls that are flat, and this means the framing must be true. Studs or rafters that have a bow or cup must be worked to make them flat. This can be accomplished with a hand-held planer for bowing, and with the use of shims for cupped framing. Use a string to help determine how true your walls are before hanging drywall. Simply stretch the string across the face of the wall – in several places – to see if all studs are on the same plane. If they are not, fix the problem before beginning the project.
Another important framing consideration, prior to attaching drywall, is that all end joints must be supported. Sometimes an extra stud must be added to accomplish this, especially for inside corners.
Framing around windows and doors must also provide a fastening surface for drywall. It is common to run the drywall up to the window or door frame where it will later be covered with molding and trim.
Fasteners
While drywall can be attached to wall studs with drywall nails, drywall screws - ‘Grabbers' – do a much better job. Over time, nails have a tendency to pull away from the studs, causing sags in ceilings and cracks and holes in the spackle. For 1/2-inch drywall use 1-5/8-inch long screws and for 5/8-inch drywall, use 2-inch-long screws.
For 1/2-inch drywall use 1-5/8-inch long screws.
When driving screws, run them just below the face of the drywall without breaking through the surface paper. The resultant holes will later be filled with spackle during the finishing process. For large drywall projects consider purchasing or renting a drywall screw gun. For smaller projects, use a corded or cordless drill/driver. Professional drywall hangers use a drywall screw gun because this tool is fast and sets every screw at a predetermined depth. Have on hand a few extra Phillips head or square drive bits as these important tips will break or become rounded over time.
When drywalling an entire room, begin by installing panels on the ceiling first. Next, install the bottom panels on the walls. Lastly, install the top wall panels. The bottom panel will hold the top panel up for fastening. The top wall panel will also help support the edges of the ceiling panels.
Cutting Drywall
In any drywall project, panels will need to be cut. The most common type of cut is across a panel. Use a chalk line or drywall ‘T' square and pencil to mark the panel prior to cutting. Use a utility knife to make the cut, keeping in mind that you do not have to cut all of the way through the panel – just through the surface paper. Once the cut has been made, lift the panel and ‘break it' along the cut line. This action is much like opening a book. Then you must cut the back paper to complete the cut. Occasionally a cut edge will be rough. Use a Surform Tool to smooth the edge of the panel for a good fit.
Use a utility knife to cut through the surface paper.
Then break the drywall panel along the cutline
Another common cut is around electrical boxes – light switches, outlet boxes and light fixture boxes including hot caps. The most difficult part of these types of cuts is determining the location of the cut relative to the box location on the wall or ceiling. Measure carefully and mark the panel for the cut.
Electrical outlet box cuts can be made with a utility knife by first measuring and outlining the cut, then cutting the outline of the box – through the surface paper. Next make an ‘X' cut diagonally from one corner to the next. Press the center of the ‘X' cut and then cut the back paper.
Another way to make cuts for electrical boxes is with a keyhole or drywall saw. Mark the location of the electrical box and pierce the face of the drywall with the saw and cut out. This method is much quicker than using a utility knife but produces more drywall dust.
Probably the easiest way to make electrical outlet box cuts is with a spiral saw, fitted with a special drywall cutting bit. With this tool it is possible to make an accurate cut for an electrical box in less than a minute. The one drawback is the amount of gypsum dust generated.
Mark the location of the electrical box, pierce the face of the drywall with the saw and cut out.
Once all of the drywall has been securely fastened to the wall studs and ceiling joists, look over the entire project and make sure that all screws have been driven below the surface. If any screw heads protrude above the surface paper they must be driven deeper to enable proper finishing. It is much easier to do this now rather than when spackling.
Taping
Historically, drywall joints were finished with paper tape. Now most professionals use fiberglass mesh tape. This tape is self stick, stronger than paper tape and is much easier to use. Simply cover all joints – including inside and outside corners – with the tape and you are ready to spackle.
Outside corners require special attention, in addition to fiberglass mesh tape. Because of the potential damage to outside corners, they are covered with ‘corner bead' prior to spackling. Corner bead is available in metal and plastic. Both square and rounded corner bead are available. Simply cut to length, install with drywall screws and cover the corner bead joint with fiberglass tape.
Corner bead is available in metal and plastic, square and rounded.
When installing fiberglass mesh tape into inside corners, you may find it helpful to use a spackle knife to press the tape fully into the corner. When installed correctly, the tape will lie flat on the two inside corner surfaces.
Press tape firmly into the corner.
Spackle & Spackle Tools
The tools needed for spackling are few and simple. These include a ‘mud' tray, an assortment of spackle knives (4-, 8- and 12-inch widths) and an inside corner tool. Some professionals also use an outside corner tool especially for curved arch ways. With this small collection of spackling tools and a little experience, you can professionally finish almost any drywall project. For best results always keep your spackling tools clean. Use clean water and a small brush to remove dried spackle from your tools.
Spackle is a paste-like material consisting of fine limestone, dolomite, water, mica, perlite, polymers and pyroohvllite. Spackle is commonly referred to as “mud” in the trade and is available in 12-, 48- (box) and 61-pound (5-gallon bucket) containers. The large size is handy because the spackle can be mixed in the bucket. For large projects, purchase several 5-gallon buckets and several boxes of spackle. Mix the boxed spackle in the empty buckets. When the project is complete the 5-gallon buckets have many uses around the home and shop.
Spackle is available in ‘All Purpose' and ‘Topping.' As a rule, All Purpose spackle is used for most types of finishing. Topping is finer in consistency and is preferred by some professional drywallers for the final coat.
Before beginning, spackle must be mixed and this is most easily accomplished with a power mixer, as shown. An electric drill and a mixing paddle will make short work of this and ensure a good consistency to the spackle. In some cases, a small amount of water may be added to thin the spackle slightly. Be careful not to add too much water as this will make the spackle too ‘runny.' Good spackle is the consistency of smooth peanut butter.
Mix the spackle with a power mixer.
Once mixed, many professionals add enough water to cover the top of the spackle. This may seem like a contradiction, but the water ‘lid' will prevent the spackle from drying as it forms a barrier between the spackle and the atmosphere.
Finishing Drywall
Most professionals begin finishing drywall by filling all nail or screw holes first. Use a 4-nch knife to ‘swipe' a dab of spackle over each hole. The idea is to fill the hole and remove the excess spackle in one pass. Nail or screw holes require two fillings, allowing the first fill to dry thoroughly before applying the second and final coat.
Begin finishing drywall by filling all nail or screw holes first.
Long horizontal joints are finished next. Use an 8- or 10-inch broad knife for this. Apply a heavy coat of spackle over the tape, filling the depression between the drywall. Long joints will commonly require three coats. The first coat is the heaviest and uses the most spackle. The second coat, applied after the first has dried completely, levels the joint. The third and final coat – once again allowing the previous coats to dry thoroughly – feathers the edges of the joint making it invisible. For the third coat use a 12-inch-wide broad knife.
Outside corners are finished in three coats. The first is the heaviest and fills the space between the wall and corner bead. Use an 8-inch knife for this coat – one edge of the knife rides on the corner bead and the other runs over the drywall. Once dry, apply a second and lighter coat using a 10-inch knife. Finally, finish the outside corner by feathering the edges with a 12-inch broad knife.
Inside corners are the most challenging. These include corners and the wall ceiling joint. Begin by applying a heavy coat of spackle to the inside corner with an 8-inch spackle knife. Next, use an inside corner tool to press the spackle into the corner and make it square. Use long strokes of the tool to help create a perfect inside corner. You may find it helpful to wet the inside corner tool with a small amount of water before making a pass. Keep the tool clean at all times and the inside corner should finish nicely.
Use an inside corner tool to press the spackle into the corner and make it square.
Once the first coat has dried, apply another coat of spackle to both sides of the inside corner. In most cases, the actual inside corner will be finished by the first pass of the inside corner tool. The second and third coat feathers and finishes the edges of the joint outward from the inside center.
Drywall joints require several coats of spackle and finish sanding.
For all spackling tasks, it is important to let each coat dry thoroughly between applications of more spackle. In colder weather, use a heater in the room to help the spackle dry. Look at the spackled joint – if it is white, the spackle is dry but, if it appears gray, it is not dry enough yet.
You may notice raised edges on joints and screw holes as they dry. These must be removed before applying additional coats. This can easily be accomplished by using a damp sponge or the edge of a clean spackle knife. You can also use a sanding pole to smooth and flatten a dried spackle joint before applying additional coats. If you choose to sand, wear a respirator to prevent inhaling sanding dust.
Use a damp sponge to clean up the raised spackle from screw holes.
After the third and lightest coat of spackle has dried, look over the work and lightly sand if required. In some cases, additional spackle may be required to fill in gouges or feather an edge. The main point to remember about finishing drywall is that the best joint is one that is unnoticeable. In short, if you can see the edges of a joint, you are not finished yet.
After the drywall has been finished, vacuum the area thoroughly. If you plan on painting, you must apply a coat of drywall sealer or primer first. Follow this with two coats of your choice of paint. Many experts also recommend priming newly installed drywall prior to installing wallpaper as well.
A properly installed and finished drywall project should last for years with little care other than occasional washing and painting. If patching is required – such as the common door knob hole – use fiberglass tape and spackle. To make the patch blend in with the existing wall, spackle about 8 to 10 inches out from the hole, feathering the edges.
Source: extremehowto.com
Improving the look of your driveway
Great first impressions start with your driveway. And it makes perfect sense to welcome spring with a fine landscaped driveway. This also includes the design elements that are on either side of the drive, as well as those that are running at the top and at the bottom of it. You can make your driveway attractive by using all sorts of materials from softscape to hardscape options.
Make A Good Entrance Better
Does your driveway add a scar on the other landscaping around the home or does it add depth to the entire look of your home. Without spending a fortune, you can choose to be creative and have a very low cost landscape that is attractive and welcoming.
Less is more. For example, if you are looking for minimal work, do not plant a flower bush at the end of your driveway where the plants can be ruined by those in your neighbourhood. Instead, use an attractive fence or a rock garden. Another important aspect is the footpath to the home. Do not use any design elements that will be in the way of the normal foot traffic. You don’t want to visitors going out of their way, or worse, trampling your plants to reach your door.
Attractive Hardscape Fixtures
Common options include walls and fences, which can add distinction and accent your driveway. A small fence can add character and colour to the landscape. Use hanging baskets or lanterns on the fence for more charm. A large rock can be especially interesting, particularly when it has multiple colours. You can plant grasses and small flowers in the cracks of stones to create even more decorative looks.
Low Cost Softscape Fixtures
On a limited budget, just landscaping along the sides of the driveway is an excellent option. It will cost little, yet add lots of beauty to your landscape design. As for softscape options appropriate to driveway areas, many things will work, such as a flower bed or groundcover along the driveway. This will create a border that is interesting and separates the lawn from the actual driveway.
Another thing to consider is the curved driveway. If your driveway has a curve in it, a great idea is to add a focal point -- something to make a statement. For example, you can have a beautiful tree, a flower bed, or a rock garden there. Whatever it is it should be beautiful because the curve will focus attention at that point of your driveway. You can use water gardens, a wishing well, as well as many other types of elements to enhance this area and have it look amazing.
Doing these landscaping operations can completely transform the entrance to your home. In a simple, affordable way, you can add character and depth to your landscape design around your driveway.
Before you start painting
The fastest and least expensive way to revitalize a room is to paint it using these interior painting tips as a guide. Discover how quickly and easily you can transform your home. Even if you have never lifted a paintbrush in your life, follow these simple steps and wait for the magic.
Tips for Selecting Colors
1. Light colors make rooms seem larger; dark colors make them appear smaller and cozier.
2. Generally, the ceiling should have the lightest color, the walls darker, and the floors darkest. This rule can be broken to create special effects. For example, a very dark ceiling will lower it and create a "cave" atmosphere, which may appeal to you.
3. Use the color cards provided by paint stores to mix and match and when you have narrowed down your choices to a favorite few, purchase small jars of the colors and test them out on pieces of drywall. If you are still uncertain, buy enough paint to cover one wall and if it turns out to be a disaster, no worries. Paint over it with a better choice.
Other Interior Painting Tips for Paint Selection
1. After choosing your colors, select the type of interior paint needed. A novice painter loves latex (water-based) paint because spills can be wiped up with a damp cloth and brushes washed in water. Oil-based paint is harder wearing and washes better than latex but requires turpentine to clean brushes and spills, and is, therefore, usually the choice of only experienced painters. Life is short; go for the latex.
2. Flat or eggshell finishes are great for most rooms, with gloss or semi-gloss reserved for trim. Semi-gloss is sometimes used for kitchens and bathrooms and even children’s rooms because it washes so well, but terms change with different brands and you should consult your paint dealer and take his/her advice.
3. Buy quality paint – it applies more easily, covers better, and stands up to washing better than cheaper brands. Paint dealers can easily figure out how much paint you need if you provide the dimensions of the room, the number of doors, windows, and closets, and describe the room’s current color.
Other Necessary Purchases
1. Invest in quality paintbrushes – one small and one large – a good roller, and a paint tray with a liner.
2. Masking tape is needed for defining and covering the edges of areas that you don’t want painted.
3. Drop sheets, either cloth (expensive) or plastic (cheaper), are needed to cover anything you don’t want splattered with paint.
Interior Painting Tips for Wall and Ceiling Preparation
1. Grab a pry-bar and a hammer to pry off the baseboards and any old trim around windows and doors that need to be replaced. Measure what you remove and buy replacements. This is a good time to check out compound miter saws and cordless drills. Purchase, rent or borrow a miter saw so that you can cut the perfect mitered angles needed for your new baseboards, and the trim for the windows and doors. Also pre-drill your molding with your cordless drill to prevent splitting and it will make the installation easier.
2. Wash the walls and ceiling, and repair any cracks and holes with a putty knife and spackle or polyfill. After the fill has dried, sand lightly and vacuum up the dust.
3. Mask edges you don’t want painted, and cover furniture and floors with drop sheets.
4. Paint the room in this order: ceiling, walls, trim. For the ceiling’s first coat, use a brush to cut a strip along the edges of the ceiling about two inches wide. Then, start at a corner with the roller and cover three or four feet in a zig-zag pattern, rolling it out to cover part of the brush-painted strip. Fill in the area and overlap the paint while it is still wet. When the ceiling is covered, wait for the paint to dry and then apply a second coat.
5. Repeat these steps for the walls, using a brush to apply the first coat at the ceiling and around the doors, windows, etc., in two-inch strips before using the roller in a vertical, zig zag pattern.
6. When the walls are dry, you can paint the trim. This is when you find out how good a job you do with masking tape. If you are replacing baseboards or any other molding, now is the time to complete these jobs.
Follow our interior painting tips and be on your way to achieving beautiful, professional results. You’ll do yourself proud.